Run to the hills (outta Mongolia)

I found out why the gravel always looked smoother on the other track.

Because it is sand.

On a positive note I managed to fix the petrol stove. Petrol had seeped into the pressure valve and soaked the seal. I dried it, applied some oil to it and all seems well. To err on the safe side we have bought a "portable card" type stove (and gas ) as backup.

Our onward travel plans were disrupted by the discovery that our exit border would be shut for a week. It is normally open Monday to Saturday, but It transpires that  the Naadam (wrestling, archery and horse races ) festival incorporates a 5 day public holiday (from Tuesday 11th July), and the country literally shuts down. If we could not cross on Monday 10th then following the 2 day festival we would be kicking our heels for a week.

So we had to pick up our pace. At this point we had not managed more than 115 kilometres of track in a day. We needed to enter the Altai mountains and get to Olgii in one day. The first 160 kilometres would be sand, gravel and road works. Then another 70 kilometres on asphalt.

Our first obstacle was a missing bridge, and a ford too deep for the bikes.

Fortunately I remembered noting on the map that there was a North and South route. In the distance we could see the dust of a truck on a different sand track, so we headed off in it's direction.

This was typical of Mongolia. A river crossing bridge was out, on the major sand and gravel route between two provincial capitals; so they built a new one further downstream, to link with the new road under construction, but don't have any indication or signage that you should go that way.

However the Altai mountains did not disappoint us.

And they stretch to Russia and Kazakhstan as well, a lot of good riding views to be had.

The going was fast, but rough and it took its toll on the bikes. At Olgii I spent a day finding loose bolts, and tightening them. But the most serious was a snapped frame bolt. 

(Bottom left)

Fortunately there was a car service garage near our ger camp site, they were able to help me remove the remains of the old bolt and fit a new one.

That just left hat shopping, the hunt for food with vegetables in it and money exchange; we had spent so much time camping and self catering that we had only spent half of the money we expected to.

Monday 10th came, we got up early at 0530 to ride the 120 kilometres to the border before it opened at 0900.

At 0700 the radiator went again, spewing coolant all over Jean.

We have broken down in worse places.

Calmly we let it cool, added more sealant, crossed our fingers, legs and toes, then carried on. It survived the final 36 kilometres of rough gravel.

At the border there was a long line of traffic ahead, we were not the only ones trying to beat the closure. There was only one thing to do, bikers perogative, filter to the front and join the six Russians already there.

Another mission accomplished, now we just need to get down the (very long) hill, on a road reputed to be the best ride in Russia, to the replacement radiator.