Gorgeous Kyrgyzstan

We did not know what to expect from Kyrgyzstan, but had high hopes, and it exceeded our expectations. From the isolated and quiet border post in the east to the massive, snow capped, mountains and their passes in the west.

Once we had rattled the 40 kilometres of good gravel road through the Karkara Valley, where every few kilometres there was honey for sale alongside the numerous bee hives, the road surface improved to unexpectedly smooth asphalt.

This enabled us to enjoy the view as we rode towards lake Issyk-kull. Which is the second largest saline lake after the Caspian sea.

The day was marred, though, when we realised it was the turn of my radiator to spring a leak. We threw in the last of our radiator sealant and topped up the coolant from the copious supply we are carrying. Then carried on regardless.

We blew the days budget on top class accommodation, a large chalet (including a fridge on the veranda) with private beach access, and went for a swim in Issyk kul (the name means warm water). The water was crystal clear, slightly salty and was indeed warm. Floating on our backs we could gaze at the impressive snow topped peaks rearing into the evening blue sky.

The Kyrgyzs, like the Kazaks, have a very welcoming attitude. Everyone we met was fascinated by our trip and eager to strike up some form of conversation. On this occasion it led to vodka drinking on the beach with a bunch of workmates from a gold mine.

With my radiator now being a problem we changed our route plans, again, in an effort to look after it. There was to be no more rough gravel or off road riding.

Unfortunately the route we plotted had a stretch that contained 70 kilometres of gravel.

The day had gone well,  some poor road surfaces, the usual gravel over a pass and then some top asphalt. Until our turn off.

We discussed following the asphalt but as this new road was not on any of our maps, Google or maps.me (a brilliant phone app we would have been lost without), that would have been a bad idea.

The gorge and roaring turquoise river it followed had multi coloured rock walls. This was one of the highlights of the trip so far.

Eventually we were spat out into a plain and then had a 3000+ metre mountain pass to negotiate, from where we could look back at part of our route.

We moved on back into Kazakhstan where with typical Kazak hospitality we were invited to indulge in a family Beshbarmak feast. This was after already eating our evening meal.

The Beshbarmak consisted of various cuts of boiled horse meat and an array of vegetables, freshly made pasta, fruit, salad and fried bread. All to be shared and eaten by hand (the name translates to "five finger food".

Oh, and vodka, lots of vodka.

Somehow we were on the road at 0830 the next day.

We are now riding the steppe north, the temperature never below 30 and topping out at 36-39 each day.

My radiator sealant is still working.